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Importance of Humus in Gardening By: Patrick Desnoyers
Both light and heavy soils require humus. A clay soil so that it will open up and aerate the soil, to allow oxygen to penetrate to the plant roots and to assist drainage. A sandy soil needs humus to bind it and to provide a moisture-holding medium during the dry summer months when plants should be making most growth but will not be able to do so where the soil is lacking in moisture.
Humus may not contain much plant food. It may take the form of decayed leaves or straw that has been broken down (composted) by an activator. Peat is also useful but being slightly acid, the soil should be given liberal dressings °finite. Peat may be used for all types of soil and so greatly improves the soil texture as to allow plant roots to range far and wide without restriction. Whilst it opens up a heavy soil, the spongy texture of moss peat can also be used to enable a sandy soil to hold moisture. Sphagnum moss peats, produced in Ireland and in Somerset are of a light brown color and are only partially decomposed, thus being able to retain the maximum amount of moisture. They can hold up to 20 times their own weight in water. A bale of peat moss (14 bushels) will cover the surface of the ground to an area of 200 square feet and to a depth of 1 inch. It should be lightly forked in and is best applied in spring. To bring the soil into a condition suitable for sowing or transplanting, take up a handful and squeeze it. It will be in the correct condition if it binds together. It the soil is dry and sandy, it is advisable to moisten the peat before using it. Being almost sterile, peat is to be recommended rather than leaf mould for with peat used as an alternative but as peat and bark are almost sterile, they should be used with artificial fertilisers made to a balanced formula or with other humus forming materials which contain suitable plant foods. For those living near the coast, chopped seaweed, containing traces of nitrogen and potash and for those gardening in the industrial north, wool shoddy, rich in nitrogen a ill be both inexpensive and easy to use. Those living in country districts may be able to obtain some well decayed farmyard manure or used hops from a brewery, each supplying humus in addition to traces of the various plant foods. Old mushroom bed compost is also excellent. Where humus forming materials are in short supply, straw composted with an activator, such as Adco or Garotta will provide both humus and nutriment and will be easy and clean to handle.
To compost straw, obtain a bale and shake it well in a corner of the garden, preferably where it can be surrounded with boards of corrugated iron sheeting. This will not only keep the heap tidy but will protect it from drying winds so that the straw may be more quickly coin posted. As the straw is spread out, soak it with water then spread a layer 12 inches deep and sprinkle over it some of the activator. Again, add more straw and more activator, building up the heap in this fashion to a height of about 5 feet. It will soon begin to heat up and in 10 days will be ready to turn, shaking out the straw and activator, giving more water if necessary and remaking the heap. Allow it to heat up for another 10 days before repeating the process and in three weeks the straw will have become dark brown, with a wholesome 'earthy' smell, whilst the bits of straw will have become quite short so that they may more easily be dug into the ground.
An excellent supply of humus can be obtained from the garden compost heap which may be formed alongside the straw compost heap, or made back to back, thus making the most economic use of the boards or corrugated sheeting. Or use a 'bin' of strong wire netting. If correctly made, there will be no unpleasant smell from the compost.
Compost makings; The compost heap is built up in layers, using any unwanted 'greens' such as pea and bean haulm, tops of carrots and beetroot, endive which in dry weather may have run to seed, anything except potato haulm and diseased plants which should be burnt, and the stems of sprouts and cabbage which will be difficult to compost. Over each layer of garden refuse, cover with soil and give a dusting of lime. If a small quantity of farmyard or poultry manure can be obtained, add this also and to bring about rapid and thorough decomposition, use an organic liquid activator. This may be liquid manure or give a sprinkling of Adco or Garotta whilst a liquid feed made to a herbal formula and known as Q.R. will prove effective. Lawn mowings may he added, and clearings from ditches and ponds, peat and leaf mould, seaweed and used hops, in fact anything of an organic nature. At the end of six months, the heap will have been entirely composted and be ready to use on the land, being rich in plant foods whilst supplying valuable humus. It will be dark greenish-brown with the consistency of farmyard manure. Vegetables require ample supplies of both humus and plant food to be successful, hence the achievements of the old cottage gardeners who continuously worked into their land quantities of night-soil and rank manure so that the soil was kept well nourished and productive. This is even more important today when it is necessary to obtain full value for one's tulle and outlay. The ultimate aim with all soils is to bring to a fine filth, deeply enriched with moisture holding humus, active in bacteria and which is spongy and friable when pressed in the hands. Such a soil will be well drained yet will be moisture retentive and will be ready to work at all times, except when covered with snow and ice. It will also warm up with the first spring sunshine so that the plants will get away to an early start.
A soil of a calcareous nature-will usually have only a limited amount of top soil and whilst humus in the form of peat or garden compost will increase the depth, this may also be done by `green' manuring. Calcareous soils are to be found in the region of the Chiltern Hills, in the Cotswolds, and along the South Coast. whilst limestone formations cover lunch of north eastern England. from Ham borough I lead to the Border. Though the high alkalinity of the soil in these parts will not be detrimental to vegetable growing, calcareous soils are usually 'hot' soils Owing to their lacking depth, and in dry weather the plants dry out rapidly and make only stunted growth.
Owner of Mishobonsai.com, a website dedicated at providing quality tree seeds suitable for bonsai culture. Also provides detailed informations about bonsai tree gardening and various species growing guide such as japanese maple and juniper.
Humus may not contain much plant food. It may take the form of decayed leaves or straw that has been broken down (composted) by an activator. Peat is also useful but being slightly acid, the soil should be given liberal dressings °finite. Peat may be used for all types of soil and so greatly improves the soil texture as to allow plant roots to range far and wide without restriction. Whilst it opens up a heavy soil, the spongy texture of moss peat can also be used to enable a sandy soil to hold moisture. Sphagnum moss peats, produced in Ireland and in Somerset are of a light brown color and are only partially decomposed, thus being able to retain the maximum amount of moisture. They can hold up to 20 times their own weight in water. A bale of peat moss (14 bushels) will cover the surface of the ground to an area of 200 square feet and to a depth of 1 inch. It should be lightly forked in and is best applied in spring. To bring the soil into a condition suitable for sowing or transplanting, take up a handful and squeeze it. It will be in the correct condition if it binds together. It the soil is dry and sandy, it is advisable to moisten the peat before using it. Being almost sterile, peat is to be recommended rather than leaf mould for with peat used as an alternative but as peat and bark are almost sterile, they should be used with artificial fertilisers made to a balanced formula or with other humus forming materials which contain suitable plant foods. For those living near the coast, chopped seaweed, containing traces of nitrogen and potash and for those gardening in the industrial north, wool shoddy, rich in nitrogen a ill be both inexpensive and easy to use. Those living in country districts may be able to obtain some well decayed farmyard manure or used hops from a brewery, each supplying humus in addition to traces of the various plant foods. Old mushroom bed compost is also excellent. Where humus forming materials are in short supply, straw composted with an activator, such as Adco or Garotta will provide both humus and nutriment and will be easy and clean to handle.
To compost straw, obtain a bale and shake it well in a corner of the garden, preferably where it can be surrounded with boards of corrugated iron sheeting. This will not only keep the heap tidy but will protect it from drying winds so that the straw may be more quickly coin posted. As the straw is spread out, soak it with water then spread a layer 12 inches deep and sprinkle over it some of the activator. Again, add more straw and more activator, building up the heap in this fashion to a height of about 5 feet. It will soon begin to heat up and in 10 days will be ready to turn, shaking out the straw and activator, giving more water if necessary and remaking the heap. Allow it to heat up for another 10 days before repeating the process and in three weeks the straw will have become dark brown, with a wholesome 'earthy' smell, whilst the bits of straw will have become quite short so that they may more easily be dug into the ground.
An excellent supply of humus can be obtained from the garden compost heap which may be formed alongside the straw compost heap, or made back to back, thus making the most economic use of the boards or corrugated sheeting. Or use a 'bin' of strong wire netting. If correctly made, there will be no unpleasant smell from the compost.
Compost makings; The compost heap is built up in layers, using any unwanted 'greens' such as pea and bean haulm, tops of carrots and beetroot, endive which in dry weather may have run to seed, anything except potato haulm and diseased plants which should be burnt, and the stems of sprouts and cabbage which will be difficult to compost. Over each layer of garden refuse, cover with soil and give a dusting of lime. If a small quantity of farmyard or poultry manure can be obtained, add this also and to bring about rapid and thorough decomposition, use an organic liquid activator. This may be liquid manure or give a sprinkling of Adco or Garotta whilst a liquid feed made to a herbal formula and known as Q.R. will prove effective. Lawn mowings may he added, and clearings from ditches and ponds, peat and leaf mould, seaweed and used hops, in fact anything of an organic nature. At the end of six months, the heap will have been entirely composted and be ready to use on the land, being rich in plant foods whilst supplying valuable humus. It will be dark greenish-brown with the consistency of farmyard manure. Vegetables require ample supplies of both humus and plant food to be successful, hence the achievements of the old cottage gardeners who continuously worked into their land quantities of night-soil and rank manure so that the soil was kept well nourished and productive. This is even more important today when it is necessary to obtain full value for one's tulle and outlay. The ultimate aim with all soils is to bring to a fine filth, deeply enriched with moisture holding humus, active in bacteria and which is spongy and friable when pressed in the hands. Such a soil will be well drained yet will be moisture retentive and will be ready to work at all times, except when covered with snow and ice. It will also warm up with the first spring sunshine so that the plants will get away to an early start.
A soil of a calcareous nature-will usually have only a limited amount of top soil and whilst humus in the form of peat or garden compost will increase the depth, this may also be done by `green' manuring. Calcareous soils are to be found in the region of the Chiltern Hills, in the Cotswolds, and along the South Coast. whilst limestone formations cover lunch of north eastern England. from Ham borough I lead to the Border. Though the high alkalinity of the soil in these parts will not be detrimental to vegetable growing, calcareous soils are usually 'hot' soils Owing to their lacking depth, and in dry weather the plants dry out rapidly and make only stunted growth.
Owner of Mishobonsai.com, a website dedicated at providing quality tree seeds suitable for bonsai culture. Also provides detailed informations about bonsai tree gardening and various species growing guide such as japanese maple and juniper.
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